Istanbul: Of Blue, Pink and Reddish Hue

The German Fountain.  Credits: RABolo.
Our second day in Istanbul was devoted on spending time on the mosques.  We've wanted to visit it on our first day but as it turned out, we had a lazy start and the Grand Bazaar took most of our time.  We made our way to Sultanamhet Square, this time opting to walk towards the Kabatas metro point from our hotel.  It was still quite early so the square was basically deserted when we arrived.  We did not have any breakfast so we made a quick stop at a bagel stall and grabbed some. I was tickled pink by it.  It was so European -- grabbing a bagel. Back home, one would go through a drive thru and get fast food for breakfast. Yeah so "Americanized."  Either that or it's  more Filipino version of stopping by a tapsilog place, which offer something most Filipinos love -- everything fried -- rice, meat and egg :)
The Egyptian and the
 Constantinope Obelisks.
With bagel in hand, we made our way to the center of the square.  By then, a group of tourist had already arrived.  We found them with a guide surrounding what looked like a gazebo.  Both Leah and I do not really know what it is but since it seemed like to attract a lot of tourist,  we took photos of it as well.  From research though, it turned out to be the German Fountain which was a gift from the German Emperor, Wilhelm II in 1901.

We inched our way next to the Egyptian Obelisk, the serpent pillar and the Constantinople walled obelisk.  Leah and I had a hard time getting the go-pro positioned on our desired angles.  We were laughing the whole time.  It did not help as well that the sun was glaring down on us.  It was difficult to peer through it's screen or that of Leah's phone.  The photos turned out great though.

Inside Sultan Ahmet Camii.  Impressive interiors.
Photo credit: RABolo

Blue Mosque.  We got momentarily disoriented but we followed some tourists and soon found ourselves in front of Sultan Ahmet Camii or in loose translation, the "Blue mosque."  We had to pass by the side entrance, wear scarves over our head and remove our shoes.  We were given plastics with which to wrap them with and bring inside.

The mosque is splendid even from the outside but inside, it is even more spectacular.  It's enormous, with the ceiling rising so far up.  The details of the ceiling were amazing.  Leah and I spent some time inside, taking pictures. At one point, I spent some quiet time in one corner.  At this time, a lot of tourists are coming in.  We rested a bit and then after a while we left.  We took a few more photos outside and then moved on.  







Magnificent Hagia Sofiya (Credit: RBolo)

Hagia Sophia, (that Great Pink Structure) was next on our list of places to visit that day.  It is just across the square from where Ahmet Camii is. So we did not have to walk far.  The square was really nice though, with fountains and well landscaped gardens.  It was a good place to just sit and people watch or be lost in introspection.  If I'd have time in my hands, I would have loved to do just that.  We spent some time taking pictures and even some short videos. It was fun.
Credit: Ley Orig
On our way to Hagia, we passed by a Turkish ice cream stall.  Leah and I are both amused noting the usual antics of the vendor handing out the ice cream to the one buying with an aid of a stick.  Then, hastily taking it back as the ice cream, incredulously, is still attached to the stick.  It must really be that "sticky" (pun intended).  Anyhow, we thought about buying, looked at the price and then decided to pass it up this time. We wanted to save time as well, wanting to have enough to spend inside Hagia.  And true enough, it was a good decision.  There simply was much to see inside.

Yup, the door is a work of wonder in itself. But the interiors are even more majestic (I actually had to think a while before being able to come up with the word.  Awesome, doesn't' seem ti cover it.)  It was the main altar with its imposing calligraphy that took my breath away. So much so that upon reaching the hotel, I immediately googled what they meant. 



I find it fascinating, noting the church's history, how it once had been a Greek Orthodox Christian church.  It then became a Roman Catholic church before it was transformed into an Ottoman mosque. It's latter history explains why the interiors of the church was littered with a lot of Christian artifacts and mosaics. Some of them were obliterated when it became a mosque but is now on display. Time had its toll but what's left tells a story of former glory.

The altar viewed from the second floor where 3 of t4 calligraphy
can be seen, along with Mama Mary and baby Jesus 
on the central arch (credit: RBolo)
The altar was a fascinating mix of its history.  Apart from the calligraphy, one can also see the markings of it's Christian past.  Right in the middle, on the dome itself, is a mosaic of Mariam and the child Jesus.  This "combined" representation took my breath away.  I found myself quietly reflecting how the walls of this great structure have seen so much history.  And I am not naive (despite my persistence to cling on positive wistfulness) to know that those histories are not exactly just "holy" and "peaceful."  Further research back in the hotel revealed as much.  I felt humbled by it all.  Everything about Hagia is larger than life itself, in figurative sense.

I took a lot of photos but I risk of flooding this page with a lot of them and my OC self certainly hating how haphazardly the pictures are arranged.  It was quite difficult to choose.  This picture was of the main dome which bears the Islamic calligraphy that expounds, "God is the light of the universe."  Imagine that.  If that won't take your breath away, I don't know what will.  Historians claim that it might have been superimposed on an image of Christ as Pantocrator (see wiki on Hagia).


The main dome bearing the Islamic calligraphy that expounds, "God 
as the light of the universe." Imagine that. Breath-taking.  Historians
claim that it must have originally depicted Christ as Pantocrator  (wikipedia). 
Credit: RBolo.  


We went back down to the ground floor although we lingered a bit on the upper floors where most of the mosaics can be found.  I took a fascination of the many windows there and took several photos (one I posted in my instragram account).  The light and shadows were quite dramatic, which actually made me reflect on the light and darkness those walls might have witnessed.

Credit: Ley Orig


At the ground floor, we paused a bit by the wishing pillar with the hole in it.  One is supposed to make a wish while sticking one's thumb inside the hole.  After which, one attempts to turn ones hand in a clock-wise manner.  One is supposed to have her dreams come true if s/he manage to make a perfect circle in one quick swoop, without removing one's thumb.


The Basilica Cistern. 
Basilica Cistern.    After a late lunch, we went immediately in search of Medusa's head.  Two of the same are said to be found inside this old water reservoir.  We paid the entrance fee, followed directions and descended the steps.  The reddish hue that seems to permeate the entire place lent drama to everything.  The floor to ceiling pillars holding everything together arranged in rows and bathe in a reddish glow was an awesome sight to behold.  It was an architectural marvel, especially when one thinks about how the cistern was the ancient city's water system before.
One of the Medusa heads

I was excited to see the two Medusa heads.  Those articles that I've read about it did not give a conclusive reason as to why they were there. It can be recalled however that in ancient times, Medusa heads are said to ward off evil.  When one looks into her eyes, they would turn to stone.  Some even said this is where the concept of "evil eye" comes from but that had to be validated.

The heads were huge.  The funny thing was that one was inverted, serving as a base to one of the pillars.  Another was lying on its side.  Neither was upright, which added more to the puzzle. How come not even one was upright?

At the intersection
People-watching.  We exited the cistern and found ourselves back to the square, facing Hagia.  We sat there for some time, just drinking up everything, looking at people passing by.  One of the reasons too was I was waiting for the metro which showcased both Messi and Ronaldo on one of its "trains" which was funny.  But after some time I finally managed to get a good shot.

The square was an interesting place to be in.  It was good to be in the middle of those that represents an ancient time and seeing all that the modern world had to offer -- the metro and the touristy double-decker bus as examples.  Istanbul is a touristic place so you get to see a good mixture of people from everywhere -- some Asians, Orientals and what-have-you's.  I loved Istanbul. It's one place I see myself living in quite happily.  I definitely would not mind going back.
A really nice structure adjacent to Hagia

It took a while but managed to take a shot.







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