From Thailand into Cambodia (via Aranyaprathet and Poipet)

I arrived in Bangkok at 12:00 midnight. It was a long walk from the ramp down to the Immigration area. Half-way in between, I spotted a Forex booth and decided to have a $50 note changed to Baht. I don’t want to risk paying the taxi a crisp 1000 baht (the only I had) lest an excuse about not having a change might be thrown my way. I don’t relish being short of cash while I go about the border-crossing. Good thing I listened to my instinct. Because my first experience in Thailand is not exactly pleasant.

Being done with the immigration, I maneuvered my way out of the airport. Suvarnabhuni Airport is such a huge airport. And there are people everywhere. It could be pretty confusing. On my way out, I noticed the airport “limousine” booths. From research I knew they really are just glorified taxis and so should not be intimidated by them. I thought about hailing one but then again opted to look for the “metered” taxis outside. As they could be a lot cheaper. Or so I thought.

There were several booths outside so I approached the first one that had the shortest line. When it was my turn I asked about how much it is going to cost me, going all the way to Mochit 2 station (bus station). I needed to catch the 5:00 AM first class bus to Aranyaprathet (Thai Border). I did not get a straight answer, only an assurance that it is going to be a metered ride. From research I knew it’s going to cost me between 200-250 Baht.

Then came the first difficulty, the driver could not speak English. So we have difficulty trying to understand each other. I keep repeating I’m due at Morchit 2, just to make sure he had understood me fully. I’ve read that there’s another Mochit station and that it’s quite difficult maneuvering towards the right station from there. And that, mistakes had often been made in the past. So anyway, he asked me where I’m really going and so I told him I’m going to Aran. Next thing I knew, he gave me a sheet with the rates for charting a taxi ride and asked me to look for Aran. I was horrified noting how it would cost me 3000 baht. That would be like around 5K pesos. And a first class bus ticket is only going to cost me 250 Baht at the most. Anyhow, I refused his offer although he kept on insisting that I should just charter him for the ride.

But that wasn’t the worst part. Just outside the airport, at the highway, where there is absolutely no way I could hire another ride, he threw the bomb shell on me. He told me that his asking price for Mochit 2 station is 400 Baht. I knew it was a total rip off and I argued that it’s only 200 to 250 Baht. But he would not listen. He asked me again if it’s alright. I did not totally agree with him but I could not say no either since he could drop me right then and there and I’d be in the middle of nowhere at 1:00 AM in the morning. I was irritated like hell and totally dismayed at having this particular experience on the onset.

Not quite content with that, he keep on insisting that I should just allow him to take me to the hotel so that early in the morning we could go to Aranyaprathet together. I grew a bit scared at the mention of the hotel. After all I am totally on my own and it’s 1:00 in the morning. I keep insisting I don’t have that much money and that I only have 500 baht with me, enough to pay for the taxi and the bus ride to Aran. We have that argument over and over again. When he offered me and asked permission to smoke, that’s when I got a break. I told him, I could not smoke as I’m pregnant. He was totally taken aback but mellowed altogether. He then asked if the “man” is the one who’s waiting for me in Aran. I had earlier mentioned to him that I have friends waiting for me at the border and that they are the ones who told me about how much the taxi would cost. Anyway, I told him that yes, the “man” is at Aran.

He started being polite after that and dropped the charter-thing altogether. But still he insisted about the 400 Baht. I played my card and up to the last moment, I asked if I could just give him 300 Baht for the baby’s sake but he would not budge. He pointed out that we took a long way because I keep refusing that we take the express-way and that it cost him so much gasoline.

Why, from research I’ve already been told not to take these turns as the passengers will be the ones to pay for the toll fees and they cost from 20 Baht and up. So every time he would insist about taking the express way, I would politely but firmly say no and that I’m not in so much hurry anyway since the bus won’t leave till 5:00 AM in the morning.

And so there he dropped me off at the right door of the station where I could get tickets for the bus. God bless his soul, he even asked me to take care of the baby. Huh! Anyway, there were several taxi drivers outside the station and again offered their taxi for a charter ride. I politely said thank you but no and turned my back on them.

At 1:45 AM, the station was deserted. I don’t know what I was expecting. Perhaps, a little like our Ecoland Overland Terminal that is always bustling with people. Anyway, there were a handful of passengers there. Some sleeping on the floor while the rest, slouched over their seats. It took a while before I was able to find the right seat where I could “slouch’ over my backpack comfortably. I was very much in need of sleep but could not totally doze off given my position. Instead, I stared right at booth 24 and 25, which from research I learned are where I could avail of the first class tickets. It’s not helpful that all the signs are in Thai. So I just stared at it, looking for the “Aranyaprathet” sign after noticing that the other windows have the names of the place written in English next to the Thai sign. It was as if I was willing the windows to bear the Aran name.

At a little over 2:00 AM, the second and third class bus booths started opening. I was tempted to take the second class ride, wanting to be on my way and sleeping off the hours on the bus. But I knew it would have several stops and would also be a little less uncomfortable than the first class ride. So I waited. A little after that booth 30 of the first class side opened up. Several people queued up for it but I ignored it, giving booths 24 and 25 my full attention. Good thing curiosity got the better of me. I stood right up in alarm when I noted the booth read, “Aranyaprathet.” I was stunned. And I told myself some time ago they must have made some modifications. True enough, even the bus ramp no. 116 that I got from the net is now made to 121.

Up to the last minute I hesitated about taking the bus even though the ticket I had in hand screamed “Aranyaprathet” at me. Anyhow, I boarded it and drifted in and out of dreamland all the way to Aranyaprathet. At one point, I was roused from slumber and noticed the terminal reads, “Aran,” I asked if it is Aranyaprathet and explained I’m due to go down there. But everybody just keep telling me it’s “Aran” and I’m not pretty sure if it also means Aranyaprathet or a different place altogether. I don’t want to go down and be in a place a hundred miles a way from where I should be.

But my instinct told me to go down right there. When I gestured for the driver and the conductor to let me go down, they motioned that I will be dropped off a little bit farther. Anyway, I grew scared when I noticed a sign that read, “Welcome to Cambodia.” I got a little concerned about entering Cambodia without proper documentation. But my head screamed at me that it is hardly logical for a Thai bus to go straight right into Cambodia without passing through immigration.

My seatmate, a lady wasn’t helping either. She kept gesturing to me that I am still in Aran, only we are in a place called, “shopping.” She kept repeating the word, “shopping.” And so I asked if she meant market since the bus did enter into some kind of a market place. Anyhow, I went down when everybody else did and hoped against hope I could retrace my steps back to the booth somewhere in the highway that read, “Tourist Information Booth.”

I was never good with directions. That is Tatay’s gift and not my own. I’m an audio-type of person. I could remember speeches and verbatim agreements down to the last detail, but signs and places, not at all. I also have a poor idea of what is near and far. So there goes. But I gathered my courage and wits around me, carried my backpack and walked bravely towards the highway. I know I should not appear alarmed or let on that I’m lost or else I’d be attracting trouble.

I was happy to have found the booth exactly where I thought it would be but the relief was short-lived noting there was nobody there to assist me. And so I walked a little bit further and noticed some kind of a second-hand car sales office. I asked the ladies there, where the Thai immigration office is. That’s when I got my second “tasteless” experience of Thailand. Good thing I’ve learned my lesson and was very polite but firm.

When I asked for directions, this lady referred me to a guy whose office is just a little bit farther than their own. Anyway, I was relieved to have found someone to talk to. Even though the whole time I was wishing I was back home where everybody knows how to speak English. Anyway, this guy then started to talk me into paying him 700 Baht for the immigration form. I felt my skin literally crawl. I always dislike “dishonest” people. The kind that could sit there and have the nerve to rip you off and make you appear stupid. Anyway, I explained that I have friends already waiting for me in Poipet (although there was none) and that they told me I ought to just go straight to the Thai immigration office and that being Filipino there is no need for me to pay for anything.

From 700 Baht the guy haggled it down to 100 Baht and I told him I’m prepared to pay 80 Baht for the tuktuk that would take me to the Immigration office and so that much I could pay him if only he would point me to the right direction. I told him politely that I know I could have the form he is giving me for free down at the immigration office and that could he please get me a tuktuk that would take me there. The saving grace was that he appeared intimidated that I could speak fluent English whereas he had to struggle the words out. Try as he might, he could not express himself fully whereas I’ve been very fluent at telling him what I want exactly. Since we had a hard time talking, I politely asked if the office is just a walking distance away since I could just walk my way there. He insisted about having his friend help me through the process for 100 Baht but I told him I’m willing to pay 80 Baht only. Anyway, I told him I’ll just walk away and look for the office myself.

I was relieved to have found some kind of a checkpoint and asked the officers there where the Immigration office is and gestured I needed to have my passport stamped. Very graciously, they pointed me to the right direction which is just a few meters a way. One officer was very exact and told me it is just 200 meters ahead. After that I had no difficulty finding the Thai and the Cambodia immigration offices. I filled out the same form that was offered to me at 700 B earlier for free, and had my passport stamped in both offices without paying a single cent.

I would have wanted to take a picture of the border but the recent experience rubbed my nerves raw. I thought it would not be such a good idea to be flashing around my camera and have someone take advantage of me again.

I’m not sure if it was just because of the recent experience but I did not like the border one bit. It unnerved me. The energy of the place did not feel “well” for me. The whole stretch was planked with casinos on both sides. I guess that added to the not so good feel of the place. And there were people everywhere. And every feet or so, someone would approach me to ask if I needed a taxi to go into Siem Reap or Phnom Penh. It was all so unnerving but I kept my cool. I just smiled and said thank you and that there is already a taxi waiting for me at Poipet. And I was glad I have taken cared of this detail early on. It would have been stressful trying to look for an “honest-looking” driver.

Before I knew it, I was on my way to Siem Reap and spend one of the most wonderful afternoons of my life. I’ve always dreamed of seeing Angkor Wat first hand. Finding myself in her midst I was filled with so much gratitude. I couldn’t believe I was finally there and that the great temple is staring right back at me. But that is a different entry altogether…