Sunrise at Angkor, The Grand Tour, Saying Goodbye at Bayon
(Day 3) I’m not sure if it was because it was my last day of touring the temples at that time or it was my changing hormones talking but that morning sure was an emotional one for me.
All guide books I’ve read about Siem Reap recommended allotting a day for sunrise watching at Angkor Wat. The hotel staff recommended it to be a part of my day 2 itinerary but I begged off.I told him I’d still be too tired from my travel and would want to catch up on my sleep.That is indeed true.At the same time though, I felt that sunrise watching at Angkor Wat would be a great way to cap my last day of touring Angkor.
Despite my resolve to catch up on my sleep, I was not able to sleep well at all.Day 2 had been such a long day – going all the way to Banteay Srei and then visiting 14 “temples” in all.And yet, sleep proved very elusive.I guess I had trouble sleeping alone in such a big bed and in a “new” place yet.It wasn’t until 2:30 in the morning that I finally managed to doze off.I woke up at around 4:30 AM. I looked at my watch and tried so hard to remember if I was able to set it to reflect the local time. Bangkok and Siem Reap are delayed from the Philippines by one hour. Since my arrival, I’ve been mentally adjusting the time reflected on my computer screen to an hour less. I use it to gauge when I should go down for lunch or dinner.
Anyway, while I was in doubt about the time, I stood up and decided to take a shower as it had been a very hot night.I felt somewhat reassured to hear the others in my floor getting ready as well. After a while I heard a knock on my door, it was the hotel staff wanting to check if I was ready for the sunrise tour. He must have thought I wasn’t up yet since I could see the relief written all over his face to see me all dressed up and wiping my wet hair dry.
When I went down (my room was at the third floor), I was given a baguette, some butter and cheese for my “take-out” breakfast.I had to ask for a bottled water as I was not given one. I did not have to wait long before my tuktuk driver came to pick me up.
It was a chilly morning. Well, even in the afternoons, while being in the temples could sometimes be very hot because of the scorching sun, going around in the open tuktuk is somewhat chilly.It must be because there are trees everywhere.Good thing Tatay was thoughtful enough to pack me my Columbia fleece.That and a shawl thrown casually over my still-wet-hair made me warm enough for the short drive to Angkor Wat.
There were already a lot of people at the temple when I arrived. From my hotel alone, the staff had informed me that fifteen (15) of the guests have gone before me. I got a bit concerned noting that the good spot near the pond in front of the temple was already teeming with people.Some even sat on chairs and stools. Still, I was lucky enough to have snagged a spot behind a young, Oriental couple who were seated at the pond’s edge. They look Japanese to me but then again I could be wrong.
Everyone had their camera poised. Many had set up tripods along the pond. As the sky lightened, a lot of clicks could be heard and there are flashes everywhere. I stood there thinking the light and the colors bathing the temple are not as dramatic as I expected them to be. I think it is because the sun wasn’t exactly rising from the temple’s background and that we actually have our back on it. As it began to get brighter, I was among the first few ones who moved out of the pond’s edge.
As I turned my back on the temple, I was surprised to note that a “very-full” moon is shining over us from the back.It looked a lot more dramatic poised over one of Angkor Wat’s ancient library structure.
I was feeling a bit tired as I walked out of the complex.I attributed it all to my utter lack of sleep for several nights. I was delighted to hear an exchange of Tagalog from a group of three who were entering the complex as I was leaving. I immediately smiled at them but did not get a response. I probably looked more Indian to them than Filipino hehehe Either that or they did not expect a fellow kababayan wandering on her own when such experience could be best shared with loved ones and closest friends.
I had no difficulty locating my tuktuk driver who readily asked me if I should visit Bayon next.I told him I’d rather have Bayon as my last stop unless he thinks it’s totally out of the way. He told me it’s not and I found out later the grand tour indeed re-enters Angkor Thom from its north gate before finally exiting the Archeological Park. So it worked out to my plan of capping my three-day temple visit at Bayon.
Sunrise at Srah Srang
My sleep-deprived body is starting to feel the strain and I boarded the tuktuk feeling somewhat less enthusiastic.As it was very early morning, I decided to allot the travel time in prayer. I apologized for feeling less enthusiastic that day. I apologized for feeling “less grateful” than I should, being where I am. I asked if it was just fatigue talking thus the seeming “ungratefulness.” I acknowledged that the opportunity of being there is something I should be very thankful about and that I am indeed, despite feeling somewhat differently at that moment.
As I apologized for not fully appreciating the experience of sunrise at Angkor Wat, I noticed the sun across the horizon. It was huge and very dramatic indeed. Immediately I felt the stung of tears at the back of my eyelids. I felt as if that was God’s answer right there – showing me it was alright if my heart did not sing at the sight of sunrise over Angkor because it was not meant to be so.
Indeed, in comparison, sunrise over at Srah Srang was a lot more magical. There was more drama created by the sun being reflected on the water’s surface. It was only on my flight back home that I was able to read in the guide book that it is worthwhile to also check out an alternative sunrise at Srah Srang instead of the usual one at Angkor Wat.
The “grand circuit” covers the temples, Preah Kahn, Neak Pean, Ta Som, East Mebon and Pre Rup. I’ve seen the street sign, “Grand Tour” the day before and wondered what it meant. I wondered if it included really great temple structures. Well, in away it did. Maybe not as grand as Angkor Wat and Bayon but all the temples mentioned above were indeed still “majestic” in their own unique way.
Neak Peak
A visit at Preah Khan completed the grand circuit. It was a huge temple compared to the other three earlier visited. It also has several passages but most of them were closed for safety purposes. Most looked like the roofing is about to collapse. At one part of the temple, there is a huge tree tearing the walls apart. But I loved walking the various halls of the temple. It’s quite easy to imagine monks moving about there. The causeway leading towards it is quite grand as well. It is said that it served as a stage for royal processions on their way to the central shrine, with their colorful forms being reflection on the moats beside it. Imagine that.
In the three days I stayed there, I have grown to love Siem Reap and its quiet, laid back ways which is very similar to the Davao of my youth.Oh it’s a busy town with lots of tourists around but it lacks the hustle and the bustle of a big city.I could easily imagine living a few years there, probably employed in a local NGO, lending a hand to the locals.
Back to Bayon, I sat there, contemplating its grandness and silently watching the tourists of all nationalities starting to arrive.I whispered a silent prayer of gratitude for being given a chance to be in the temple’s midst.Then, it dawned on me how I only used to look at the pictures of the temples from the pages of National Geographic; how I would hungrily pour at the pages, enthralled by the temples’ grandness.I remember eagerly awaiting for episodes of NG featuring the same. And yet, at that instant, there I was, looking at it first hand. For the first time in the three days I was there, I was hit with a feeling of gratitude so big I felt as if my heart was about to burst.
Angkor Wat used to be just a dream of my youth and there I was, finally been given the chance to see the temples.It was totally unbelievable.I couldn’t believe I was finally there.I fully understood, sitting there why I had to take the journey on my own.It was meant to be so, because it was the pursuit of a long-time personal dream.
I was indeed very grateful for the experience.I still am and I think I will eternally be grateful for it.Now the temples hold more meaning to me.They no longer just represent the power of the human spirit and how much it could achieve.They now serve as a personal testament that I can achieve anything I want once I set my heart and soul into it.Oh, I always believed in that but this particular experience magnified it even more so.
Thank you, Father God.Indeed, no eye or heart can conceive what you have in store for those who love and trust in You.
All guide books I’ve read about Siem Reap recommended allotting a day for sunrise watching at Angkor Wat. The hotel staff recommended it to be a part of my day 2 itinerary but I begged off.I told him I’d still be too tired from my travel and would want to catch up on my sleep.That is indeed true.At the same time though, I felt that sunrise watching at Angkor Wat would be a great way to cap my last day of touring Angkor.
Despite my resolve to catch up on my sleep, I was not able to sleep well at all.Day 2 had been such a long day – going all the way to Banteay Srei and then visiting 14 “temples” in all.And yet, sleep proved very elusive.I guess I had trouble sleeping alone in such a big bed and in a “new” place yet.It wasn’t until 2:30 in the morning that I finally managed to doze off.I woke up at around 4:30 AM. I looked at my watch and tried so hard to remember if I was able to set it to reflect the local time. Bangkok and Siem Reap are delayed from the Philippines by one hour. Since my arrival, I’ve been mentally adjusting the time reflected on my computer screen to an hour less. I use it to gauge when I should go down for lunch or dinner.
Anyway, while I was in doubt about the time, I stood up and decided to take a shower as it had been a very hot night.I felt somewhat reassured to hear the others in my floor getting ready as well. After a while I heard a knock on my door, it was the hotel staff wanting to check if I was ready for the sunrise tour. He must have thought I wasn’t up yet since I could see the relief written all over his face to see me all dressed up and wiping my wet hair dry.
When I went down (my room was at the third floor), I was given a baguette, some butter and cheese for my “take-out” breakfast.I had to ask for a bottled water as I was not given one. I did not have to wait long before my tuktuk driver came to pick me up.
It was a chilly morning. Well, even in the afternoons, while being in the temples could sometimes be very hot because of the scorching sun, going around in the open tuktuk is somewhat chilly.It must be because there are trees everywhere.Good thing Tatay was thoughtful enough to pack me my Columbia fleece.That and a shawl thrown casually over my still-wet-hair made me warm enough for the short drive to Angkor Wat.
There were already a lot of people at the temple when I arrived. From my hotel alone, the staff had informed me that fifteen (15) of the guests have gone before me. I got a bit concerned noting that the good spot near the pond in front of the temple was already teeming with people.Some even sat on chairs and stools. Still, I was lucky enough to have snagged a spot behind a young, Oriental couple who were seated at the pond’s edge. They look Japanese to me but then again I could be wrong.
Everyone had their camera poised. Many had set up tripods along the pond. As the sky lightened, a lot of clicks could be heard and there are flashes everywhere. I stood there thinking the light and the colors bathing the temple are not as dramatic as I expected them to be. I think it is because the sun wasn’t exactly rising from the temple’s background and that we actually have our back on it. As it began to get brighter, I was among the first few ones who moved out of the pond’s edge.
As I turned my back on the temple, I was surprised to note that a “very-full” moon is shining over us from the back.It looked a lot more dramatic poised over one of Angkor Wat’s ancient library structure.
I was feeling a bit tired as I walked out of the complex.I attributed it all to my utter lack of sleep for several nights. I was delighted to hear an exchange of Tagalog from a group of three who were entering the complex as I was leaving. I immediately smiled at them but did not get a response. I probably looked more Indian to them than Filipino hehehe Either that or they did not expect a fellow kababayan wandering on her own when such experience could be best shared with loved ones and closest friends.
I had no difficulty locating my tuktuk driver who readily asked me if I should visit Bayon next.I told him I’d rather have Bayon as my last stop unless he thinks it’s totally out of the way. He told me it’s not and I found out later the grand tour indeed re-enters Angkor Thom from its north gate before finally exiting the Archeological Park. So it worked out to my plan of capping my three-day temple visit at Bayon.
Sunrise at Srah Srang
My sleep-deprived body is starting to feel the strain and I boarded the tuktuk feeling somewhat less enthusiastic.As it was very early morning, I decided to allot the travel time in prayer. I apologized for feeling less enthusiastic that day. I apologized for feeling “less grateful” than I should, being where I am. I asked if it was just fatigue talking thus the seeming “ungratefulness.” I acknowledged that the opportunity of being there is something I should be very thankful about and that I am indeed, despite feeling somewhat differently at that moment.As I apologized for not fully appreciating the experience of sunrise at Angkor Wat, I noticed the sun across the horizon. It was huge and very dramatic indeed. Immediately I felt the stung of tears at the back of my eyelids. I felt as if that was God’s answer right there – showing me it was alright if my heart did not sing at the sight of sunrise over Angkor because it was not meant to be so.
Indeed, in comparison, sunrise over at Srah Srang was a lot more magical. There was more drama created by the sun being reflected on the water’s surface. It was only on my flight back home that I was able to read in the guide book that it is worthwhile to also check out an alternative sunrise at Srah Srang instead of the usual one at Angkor Wat.
The Grand Tour
I’m personally fond of Preah Kahn. It is a huge monastic complex full of carvings and passages. According to the guide books, it originally served as a monastery and school for over 1000 monks. Later, it became a residence of King Jayavarman VII during the reconstruction of its permanent residence at Angkor Thom. The name also literally translates to, “Sacred Sword” which is represented by the stupa installed in its innermost sanctum or the very heart of the temple.
After the sunrise at Angkor , we exited the complex and passed through Prasat Kravan, SrahSrang and Pre Rup before finally stopping at East Mebon which is our first temple for the day. The colors and lighting were perfect at that time, around 6 AM . The beginnings of sunrise casting the temple in a golden glow. It is similar in structure to Pre Rup, a temple-mountain, rising three levels and crowned by 5 towers.
I was the first visitor at the temple, understandably so, but I was surprised to see the usual designated temple guard. It was a little before 6 AM and yet the guard was there to check on my pass before I was allowed entry. As I made my way up of the temple, I felt the stillness of my surroundings. Everything is so quiet, so still that it was a bit unnerving. Even now, recalling how it was, I feel the prickling of the hairs at the back of my neck.
The energy of the place was really something. The significance of the temple to its earliest inhabitants, the celebrations and rituals that it must have been a witness to, all seemed to permeate the air as I stood there, the lone presence at that time. I took some pictures, hesitant to take each step further into the heart of the temple. I was at the foot of the third level when the energy became totally unbearable. It was too unnerving. I chided myself, thinking I’ve probably just imagined everything. I thought at that time it was only the stillness that is getting on my nerves. That and reading Anne Rice’s vampire chronicles far too many times in the past.
The scene in one of the books – the Queen of the Damned (if I’m not mistaken) – of ancient rituals in ancient temples housing vampires pretending to be Gods came to taunt me, fueling my fear. So when I caught a glimpsed of a “blackened” statue at the inner sanctum of the topmost tower, I retraced my steps, my imagination running amok hehehe When I stumbled upon an enclosed tower littered with holes on my way down, the more fearful I grew. I imagined an “erring” vampire enclosed there, banished to suffer hunger for eternity hahaha! It was such a funny thought and I was half-laughing inside at that time. However, it only made my resolve not to stay any longer at the temple.
Next stop was at Ta Som. It is "Bayon-like," with four-faced gopuras. I was not able to explore much of the temple though since once there, I found out I left my purse with my Samsung camera and temple pass at East Mebon . Imagine how I felt at that time. I could not for the love of me remember how I could leave it at the former temple. Another thing too, I was happy to have left the temple, I did not relish the thought of going back but I had to.
Ta Som is quite a distance from East Mebon and I felt ashamed to have caused my tuktuk driver the inconvenience of going back. The time would have been best spent in moving on to the next temple. In my shame, I decided not to go back to Ta Som and explore it some more. Oh and yeah, I felt relieved to have found out the guard at East Mebon took the initiative to search the temple for my purse. He had it ready by his post when I got there. The guard at Ta Som had informed him beforehand thru the radio that we are on our way back there. I did not like the thought of having to search the temple grounds again for my purse.
On our way back to complete the circuit, my driver told me to take care of my pass and I apologized for what happened. I told him my decision to go straight to the next temple – Neak Pean.
baray. The central temple sits at the axis of a lotus patter of four pools. Being the first one there, it was again very eerie. Standing there all alone, along-side one of the pools, I had the feeling that an anaconda is due to come out anytime haha Me and my wild imagination. I can’t help it, what with the coiled serpents that encircle the central temple. Good thing I did not know at that time that its name literally meant, “coiled serpents” hehe The temple is said to be a sacred island, drawing its charm from its ponds and clearing away the sins of those who approach it. The waters from the pool are also said to be curative. I had my doubts though noting how they looked murky to me. However, I also read somewhere that it is good to visit the temple during rainy season when the pools are filled with water which must be a lot cleaner by then.
There was a canoe at the site but being on my own, I did not think it was such a good idea to board it and approach the temple all by myself. I also got a bit concerned about the mosquitoes in the area. There were a lot, considering the temple sits in a swampy area. I did not fancy catching malaria while being there. But it sure is worth the visit as Neak Pean is very unique indeed compared to the other temples.
A visit at Preah Khan completed the grand circuit. It was a huge temple compared to the other three earlier visited. It also has several passages but most of them were closed for safety purposes. Most looked like the roofing is about to collapse. At one part of the temple, there is a huge tree tearing the walls apart. But I loved walking the various halls of the temple. It’s quite easy to imagine monks moving about there. The causeway leading towards it is quite grand as well. It is said that it served as a stage for royal processions on their way to the central shrine, with their colorful forms being reflection on the moats beside it. Imagine that.
Somehow I felt a special connection with Preah Khan (imagined or not hehe). I felt at home there and I felt an unexplainable fondness for it. During my visit there, I sat at the eastern causeway, opposite the wall being overtaken by the huge tree. I loved looking at the windows opposite me and it’s easy to imagine monks looking out from them. I spent considerable time eating my breakfast there. Feeling my energy ebb once again, I felt it was the perfect time to eat my breakfast as I drink up the energy of the place. Compared to the other three where I felt some sort of fear, I was totally at home with Preah Khan. I felt at peace as I sat and ate my “take out” baguette and cheese. That is one thing I missed about Siem Reap as well. The baguette for breakfast accompanying some spread or scrambled eggs. It wasn’t heavy on the stomach, just enough to fuel me for the entire morning.
Saying Goodbye at Bayon
From there, it was back to Bayon for me. We entered Angkor Thom back through the north gate which is closest to Preah Khan. We went past the Terrace of the Leper King and the Elephants. I spent considerable time at Bayon. At one point even, I almost got rundown by an elephant in my haste to return to my tuktuk after taking my last picture of the temple.
I was loathe to walk away, knowing full well that was the last chance of being at the temple complex. From then on it’s back to the town proper and some last-minute shopping before I’m due to leave the next morning for Bangkok
In the three days I stayed there, I have grown to love Siem Reap and its quiet, laid back ways which is very similar to the Davao of my youth.Oh it’s a busy town with lots of tourists around but it lacks the hustle and the bustle of a big city.I could easily imagine living a few years there, probably employed in a local NGO, lending a hand to the locals.
Back to Bayon, I sat there, contemplating its grandness and silently watching the tourists of all nationalities starting to arrive.I whispered a silent prayer of gratitude for being given a chance to be in the temple’s midst.Then, it dawned on me how I only used to look at the pictures of the temples from the pages of National Geographic; how I would hungrily pour at the pages, enthralled by the temples’ grandness.I remember eagerly awaiting for episodes of NG featuring the same. And yet, at that instant, there I was, looking at it first hand. For the first time in the three days I was there, I was hit with a feeling of gratitude so big I felt as if my heart was about to burst.
Angkor Wat used to be just a dream of my youth and there I was, finally been given the chance to see the temples.It was totally unbelievable.I couldn’t believe I was finally there.I fully understood, sitting there why I had to take the journey on my own.It was meant to be so, because it was the pursuit of a long-time personal dream.
I was indeed very grateful for the experience.I still am and I think I will eternally be grateful for it.Now the temples hold more meaning to me.They no longer just represent the power of the human spirit and how much it could achieve.They now serve as a personal testament that I can achieve anything I want once I set my heart and soul into it.Oh, I always believed in that but this particular experience magnified it even more so.
Thank you, Father God.Indeed, no eye or heart can conceive what you have in store for those who love and trust in You.
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